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| Athearn/Roundhouse/Horizon Questions Now that Athearn and MDC/Roundhouse have been sold to Horizon, are they going to put out a catalog of these products? Athearn still runs ads, but what has happened to MDC? They had ads in the News all the time. In the February issue of Railroad Model Craftsman, the Bev-Bel ad said that they could no longer get Athearn products to custom paint, is Horizon now picking who they sell to? Fred C. Schwarze Hebron, IN |
| Hi Fred, so many questions, so few answers. I asked a representative of Athearn about the car paint products, and he said that Athearn still does some custom production of parts, but also stated that Horizon is the sole distributor of Athearn products and that he couldn’t comment on the specifics of any relationship they had with any industrial customer. For now, the MDC/Roundhouse line is being sold under the cover of Athearn. Whenever they rerelease Roundhouse products, they will advertise them aggressively. I, too, miss the bright, colorful Roundhouse ads which used to run on page 2, but the “Full Steam Ahead” ad which you’ll find on page 2 of this issue is an Athearn N-scale release of a Roundhouse favorite. As of press time, there has been no plans for a catalog of train products from Horizon. The current marketing concept is to retain the prewar prototypes in HO in their updated Roundhouse packaging and brand name. HO products based on prototypes after 1941 will be rolled into the Athearn brand name. All of the Roundhouse N-scale products will now be folded into Athearn’s N-scale lineup, which is what the “Full Steam Ahead” ad reflects. Also expect that items in the old Roundhouse line will be upgraded and revised as they are put back into production. As they are rereleased, we at MRN will cover them! Ed. |
| Custom Builder’s Lament As a custom builder of HO steam-type locomotives and with the recent loss of two major suppliers of parts (Mantua and MDC), it has become very limiting as to obtaining the diversity of parts available. My question is, will Horizon (MDC) and/or Model Power (Mantua) eventually offer parts, primarily frames, drivers, valve gear, etc.? I have contacted Model Power who has issued a parts list, but have not had success in getting a positive answer. If you have any insight into who I might contact, particularly at MDC, I would very much appreciate any help you may offer. (Thank goodness for Bowser who has been very reliable.) Ray Van Blargan Whippany, NJ |
| Good question, Ray. MDC is being handled by Athearn, so you might contact them about MDC parts. They are still sorting through that catalog, but I’m sure they’ll tell you both what they have and what they are planning to carry. As you noted, Model Power is now in charge of the Mantua line. I know they are also cataloging what all is available, so I would contact Model Power about that line of parts. I would say that if both companies see enough demand for parts, they will respond. Ed. |
| Products Needed For HO As a contemporary HO modeler, there are some gaps in available products to complete the contemporary scene. Thought I would list a few in the hope that you know of some pending moves to fill these gaps, or can suggest some ideas to manufacturers looking to create new products. Main lack is modern automobiles from US and Japanese manufacturers. Where are the Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas, Accuras? Or the Dodges, Chevys, Fords, Chryslers, Buicks, etc.? I guess the German companies aren’t interested in these, but they should be. There are no modern, scale non-working traffic lights, crossing gates and blinkers, highway lights, or highway signs. Nor do we have any of the office buildings springing up in office parks two or three story buildings with large windows. Closest was the front half of the Walthers Auto Plant. Even tapered poles to construct modern traffic and highway lights would be welcome. Rolling stock and locomotives are pretty good, though I would love to see a three unit articulated 53-foot 125T intermodal car. The Walthers model has separate cars, not the more common articulated unit. For all modelers, I am surprised that no one makes realistic and scale size dummy railroad signals. The toy stuff from Life-Like and Bachmann is not to scale, and the lighted units by Oregon or Tomar are overkill if you don’t want lighted signal systems. Eventually looking for the locomotive manufacturers to build GE ES44AC and ES44DC models, plus the EMD SD70ACE units just announced. Maybe in 2006. Great publication. Read it thoroughly each month. Roger Thomas West Windsor, NJ |
| This officially passes your thoughts on, Roger. Whether or not it results in the products you’d like is another issue. Some of the problems with making models of current automobiles is that they are very aggressively protected against trademark infringement, adding a lot of extra expense. American Limited Models produces a fully operational wig-wag which is just wonderful. We had old SP wig-wags operating here in the Rogue Valley up until a year or so ago. Herpa produces some HO office buildings, very plain and begging for some aftermarket sprucing. Pikestuff makes a very typical two story steel building found in industrial parks all over the US. Kit bashing is always an alternative. I’ve seen indications that the SD70ACE is coming in brass very soon. Expect some of the others to have the tooling underway for both the ACE and the Evolution in plastic. Keep checking; every day’s a new day in this hobby! Ed. |
| Who Makes The Krauss-Maffei Models? Which HO model railroad company makes the Rio Grande German-built Krauss-Maffei C-C diesel-hydraulic freight locomotives? I would love to get an A and B unit! Please reply! Stacey L. Foster Seattle, WA |
| Well, Stacey, I don’t think there is a plastic version in production right now, and I’m never sure of what’s available in brass at any given time. I seem to recall Rivarossi once made the Krauss-Maffei, a rather revolutionary German-made diesel-hydraulic locomotive with 4,000 horsepower. Southern Pacific purchased 18 of them and Rio Grande took 3 more, which eventually joined the SP herd. As locomotives, they weren’t entirely successful. Some of them ended up having their cowl bodies cut back to hood units, wearing more common traction-motor trucks, and getting uglier with each passing day. SP and D&RGW never imported a B unit, though you could kit bash your own, if they made the A unit to start with. Best wishes and good luck! Ed. |
| Troop Car Memories To reviewer Larry Smith: I enjoyed your review of the Walthers cars both as a modeler and also as a two-time passenger. Your detail descriptions and pictures bring back memories mostly good of those trips. The food service was good and our routine was to go single file through the kitchen car and, when the last man from that end of the train reached the kitchen food servers, the line was reversed with that last person taking his food back to his car and bunk area. When that line was served, the other half or end of the train filed through and was served in like manner. I don’t remember being served in the bunk car or even the 12-1s. We may have had paper plates, but I think we used our mess kits and cups. It was warm weather and the car windows were open as were the side doors in the kitchen car. Traveling at speed, the noise in the kitchen car was deafening with the iron stoves, metal pots, pans, etc. rattling and the cooks and servers yelling to be heard, and the passengers trying to move through and out while juggling their food and drink is almost unforgettable. I don’t remember Pullman Porters in each car. They may have had to cover several cars, and they did a fine job keeping the train in first class condition. The larger room at the car end was the “game” room, as were many of the 12-1 Drawing Rooms. Games were cards and dice and most were almost continuous. The Greater Cincinnati Railway Museum in Covington, KY has several former troop cars. Their gift shop is a troop car which the B&O had converted to an express car. They also have a Sleeper which was used by the C&O in Maintenance of way. It is still quite original. Thanks for a fine review … and for jogging my memory. Bob Gallagher Pickerington, OH |
| Thanks for adding some more color to Larry’s review, Bob. I’m sure any veteran of any period can imagine the scene. Larry will enjoy this letter when he gets his copy of the magazine just as I’m enjoying it now. Thanks again. Ed. |
| Garden Railroad Power Wiring To “Larger View’s” John Sipple: Thank for the timely article, Larger Electrical Power in the Larger View column of December’s issue. I was approaching the point of having to wire my Garden Railroad, the C&J Railroad. I have read several articles regarding brass track and the need to wire each section, but I wasn’t sure if I needed to do that for stainless steel. I could not have asked for a timelier article with specific and useful information. I followed your suggestion to use 12-gauge wire connecting it to the Split-Jaw rail clamps. I had several in place already where I had cut pieces of track to fit to my track plan and then joined them with the rail-clamps. Having gained some experience from rewiring my bass boat and working on Navy aircraft, I was concerned about corrosion. Metal, water, and electricity together makes for a corrosion prone problem that will raise its head at the worst time. I made a trip to my local marine supply house and found marine grade wire connectors made by Ancor. This brand seems to be more corrosion resistant then your typical brand you find in the automotive or hardware stores. Ancor offers connectors with shirk wrap material instead of the lightweight plastic found on other connectors, but they were a little pricier. Another type is a double crimp style. I settled on the double crimp style because I felt it gave a much more secure connection that would not pull loose. After making the connection, I coated both ends of the connector with liquid electrical tape to prevent any moisture from getting to the wire. You need to allow adequate time for this to harden otherwise it will stick to everything it touches. When using liquid electrical tape, be sure not to get any on the mating surfaces of the connector and rail lamp. It will prevent a good electrical connection. I also cut my wires with a couple of extra feet in case I had to go back at a later date and replace any connectors. This is also a good idea that will prevent a wire from being pulled out of the ground if the track is inadvertently moved. Simply loop the end and bury it near the connection. Thanks again and I will be looking for more great information from you and Model Railroad News. John Braun Chief Operating Officer and Head Ditch Digger C&J Railroad |
| Thanks for the additional information, John. For now, my connections are working fine, even though I didn’t go to the lengths you did. If I start having problems, I’ll keep all of this in mind and improve it all. Like you, I left some extra length in case I needed to replace some connectors. To paraphrase an old saying, if you don’t have time to build it right the first time, when will you have time to build it over again? Looks to me like you got it right. John |
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