Couplers On Walthers F7 Units

I just read your review of the Walthers F7 units in your December 2007 issue and the trouble you had with their coupler installation. I received this set for Christmas and am having the same problem. They have two different diagrams showing how to put these couplers together. One has the spring below the coupler itself, the other below the coupler box. I need some help here before I can run these critters. Where does the spring go and what is the theory of operation. I can’t seem to figure it out. I tried to do a Google on it, but no help there either. Do you know where I can find better information on these? Would appreciate.

Bryan Hinkle
Whispering Pines, NC

The concept is rather similar to the Kadee 33 coupler, and you might go to their web site and study up on that. See them at www.kadee.com/htmbord/page78.htm. As much as I like Kadees, I never liked putting these together, either! —John

Walthers F7 Problems

I was wondering if you might be able to shed some light on something. I have read some great reviews about the new Walthers F7s that came out, and have the Empire GN A- and B-set with the second A as a no-sound unit. They look great. My question is why — and I speak for some other pieces as well — why does almost everything have to be fixed, tweaked, or just repaired/sent back nowadays? We got the AB set and it was fine so we picked up the extra A-unit with no sound, well a week later I had to send in the wheels because they had flat spots on them. Now, a month later on the new wheels I have had to take one wheelset out and re-set the gauge because it had started to short out the layout. The B-unit w/QSI wouldn’t shut down when you hit 9-9 and both had the same address. I had to re-download the software with my QSI programmer just to make that work right. I have been in this DCC world for 10 years now using Digitrax. It seems that if a family wanted to get started in model railroading they may quit just as fast.

Chris Mueller
Gresham, OR

A few words are in order about the Athearn depot. The Marion depot was located on the McPherson District of the Middle Division, which extended from Florence to Ellenwood, a distance of 98 miles. The local trains that worked this branch were 87 and 88 and ran from Emporia Monday through Saturday using three crews and I worked these trains in 1959 and 1960.

This depot should not have any steps at the doors as in the pictures. A brick platform completely surrounded this building and the only step was about five inches from the platform to the concrete at the doors. The track department did not like these platforms so they began to disappear in the early 70s. It made it hard for them to do track work. In addition, the order board should be a lower quadrant style, as all of the ones the Santa Fe used were of this type.

Robert G. Harris
Marion, KS

I have been an “arm-chair” model railroader for over 40 years. During that time I have read about scale, ratio, gauge, and inches or mm per foot or meter, and I have been looking for an explanation of the mathematics involved in converting from one item to another.

Having just started with a train set in On30 (or On21/2), I would like the numbers for scale, ratio, gauge, and inches.

Please help.

Robert L. Lorentz
Jerseyville, IL

Scale may also refer to the ratio of size but can also refer to that unit of measure which is equivalent to one foot, for example. In the case of 1:48 O scale, that would be 1/4 inch, and some folks call it “quarter-inch scale.” Gauge, on the other hand, is the measurement between the gauge faces of both rails on a track. In full scale, standard gauge is 56.5 inches. On30 represents 1:48 scale of 30-inch gauge, so the actual track is 0.625 inches apart, except that it is really HO track which is 0.649 inches apart, minimum to 0.663 inches maximum, according to the NMRA. —John

Why don’t magazines say anything about TT scale anymore? And what is the scale for TT? I can’t remember anymore.

Lynn Rayl
Estill, SC

N-Depth Switching

I have had three N-scale layouts. All were in a small bedroom in apartments. Currently, my fourth layout is being built in a 10 x 14 spare bedroom in my own place. It is a condo with no basement. The key to a successful switching layout is good track work, and good switch placement. Quality track and switches also are a must. I am using Peco track and switches, with Caboose Hobbies hand throws. The Peco switches lock by themselves, should a person not want to use hand throws.

After putting in track and switches, I run by hand several cars through the switches onto the track to be switched. Push in one way and pull out the other way. If an industry is going to be on the track, it is also placed in the proper position. I usually have a consist of mixed freight, auto racks, covered hoppers, and coal cars. If everything goes well, with no problems, I go onto the next portion. If there is a problem, it is fixed, before further work is attempted.

I will be using under track magnets, and a “Rix” pick to uncouple cars, as in the past. Yes, I still do have an occasional derailment, but not like my first layout. Having run on other N-scale layouts where derailments are very common, I find using the above tactics, should give a person many hours of enjoyable switching, on an N-scale layout, without the aggravation of derailments.

All of my rolling stock, engines and cars, have Micro-Trains couplers and wheel sets. Yes, this adds to the cost, but it also eliminated a lot of problems.

My current layout has a four-track double-loop main, as I want to run a lot of coal, plus unit trains of grain, some mixed freight, and intermodal. So far, all of the lower track is in place, but before the upper level is built, I will run trains for a few months just to make sure there are no running problems, before hiding the tracks.

If you are considering an N-scale layout, go for it, but remember, you are in this hobby for fun. If you have poor track work, and derail, you will not be having fun. Take it slow, go carefully, and above all, ENJOY.

Dave Swanson
Roscoe, IL

I do a lot of switching on my N-scale layout as I have two large yards and multiple industries. I use Peco turnouts and track and have very few problems with derailments. What derailments I do have are in other areas and usually involve passenger trains, especially backing movements. Eighty-five percent of my freight rolling stock has Micro-Trains trucks and couplers. The ones with Accumate do not derail, but I have replaced about half of them with MT because of coupling problems. If a car with the newer small flanges does derail, I replace the wheels with regular MT wheel sets, as I have no problems with those.

My switch engines do not derail, but the biggest problem I have is reliability over time. I guess due to the small size and the constant back and forth movements, the gearing does not hold up. Right now, I am mainly using Atlas VO 1000’s with success. I did try Walthers/Life Like SW’s, but they only lasted a few months before the gears began to hang up. In the past I used Con-Cor, Arnold, and others. I have three old Arnold switchers which are still working. Taking them apart and cleaning and so forth yielded little if any improvement.

Another problem in N switching is that you often need to use two engines together and getting two that run the same is sometimes difficult, even the same type from same manufacturer purchased at same time. If the VO’s fail, I may try GP type engines from Atlas. 

As for weight, I use old-fashioned modeling clay, as it is easily moldable and fairly heavy. However, I have very few freight cars that need it, but I do use it in most of my passenger cars. My passenger trains are staged off the layout and have as many as 10 cars, some with six wheel trucks, and are backed into the staging through several Atlas remote turnouts. 

By the way, 95 percent of my rolling stock has plastic wheels and I do not have a problem with the plastic affecting the rails. I have been known to go for months without cleaning the track and was still able to operate trains effectively. The biggest problem is oxidization of the rails — even in an air conditioned/heated room in my house.

The local art center had a tour of homes and mine was one of them and over 100 people came through (at $20 a person). I opened my train room as part of the home tour and ran a train continuously for 3 hours in a loop with no derailments. I have learned to use one good engine and about 10 freight cars with MT trucks. Naturally, there was no movement into yards or backing movements.

The layout is 30 inches wide and about 50 feet long and goes around the wall in a loop-the-loop.

Bob Tugwell
Belton, SC

Two Cents’ Worth On Automobile Models

Dear Bill:

I started reading Model Railroad News about two years ago, so this year I decided to subscribe. It’s a very interesting and informative magazine and I really enjoy reading it, especially your “At the Grade Crossing” column.

Anyway, here’s my two cents’ worth for your future reference.

I’m planning to model the 1958-1960 era, and while there are quite a few model cars in 1/87 scale, we could use more specific models for the era.

While it’s nice that both Model Power and Athearn are producing ’55 Ford pickups, we need more varied models from the era! We need some Studebakers (both cars and trucks) and Packards as well as Chrysler Products (Dodge and Plymouth)! Classic Metal works is taking a step in the right direction with their upcoming Dodge Meadowbrook, but we need more!

Now we need more everyday vehicles as well! Once again, Classic Metal Works is leading the way with their line of IH semis and delivery trucks, not to mention their Greyhound Bus. Although they may be discontinued soon, Imex’s models of Ford, Peterbilt, and IH Trucks also fit the bill, in addition to Athearn’s Ford panel trucks.

But what about a soft drink delivery truck? You know, the old-fashioned kind with the bottles on outside racks. Also, how about CMW bringing back their line of IH Metro Delivery Trucks, as well?

Now, I do like Woodland Scenics’ generic cars of the 50s, as well! Granted, they’re not based on any specific prototypes, but they do add character to a layout!

Finally, agriculture equipment. I like Athearn’s line of John Deere Tractors, and Life Like’s Scenemaster line of generic ’50s-era cars and trucks make for good scenery at a reasonable cost. Now Preiser, Wiking, and Kibri make some very good models of tractors that, while based on German prototypes, can be used in a North American setting with a little modification and most of their other implements, such as farm trailers and plows, look close enough to U.S. prototypes without any real modification at all. But their line of combines look much too modern for my modeling era and the only pull-behind combine model is a metal kit from GHQ. But we need haybalers from the era as well as pull-behind and powered combines!

In closing, I hope that my e-mail helps and your reply is appreciated.

John T. Patterson
Mansfield, TX

In your particular era, you already have a fair number of vehicle models from which to choose and more have been announced. Assuming Model Power is able to get their production issues resolved, they will have three new models suitable for the mid-to-late-1950s coming in 2008, including a 1955 Chrysler Imperial, 1957 Plymouth, and a 1958 Studebaker Golden Hawk. Athearn is making a model of a 1956-1957 Checker A8 taxicab and Masterpiece has a 1950 Ford sedan coming. Be sure to pick up some of the Classic Metal Works 1959 Ford Fairlanes. It’s available as a family sedan, taxi, or police car. CMW can still supply their 1958 Chevrolet Impala and 1953 Ford Victoria hardtops.

The available pickups include the Busch 1950 Chevrolet 3100, CMW 1954 Ford F-350, Athearn 1955 F-100, and Model Power 1956 Ford F-100. The Busch Dodge Power Wagon is a replica of a late 1940s version but, except for minor changes to the pickup bed, it looked the same throughout the 1950s. CMW is making their F-350 with a couple of utility bodies.

Looking at larger trucks, the CMW White WC-22 is a replica of a truck that was built from 1950 to 1959. You also have, as you noted, the International R-190. CMW has announced a 1954 Ford F-700 tanker. In addition, you should consider the various Athearn Mack B and Ford C trucks. The Ford is actually a replica of a later model year, but the general styling is the same as the first Ford Cs built in 1956 and 1957. The 1958, 1959, and 1960 model years had quad headlamps.

The CMW bus is nice and you also have the 1959 GM “Fishbowl” city bus from Busch. So you have models for both transit and intercity bus service.

A soft drink truck is a great idea, but to do it right means molding an awful lot of crates, plus the small matter of licensing a soft drink brand. I can think of a lot of other specialty trucks that I would give priority, like fire trucks.

Athearn is doing a good job with their John Deere tractors, but I think I would look at Wiking, Preiser, or others for older equipment. The Europeans have been making models of ag equipment for a number of years and they have a lot more to offer. You might also see if you could scare up one of the Wiking Ferguson tractors. The “Little Gray Fergie” was produced in both English (TE) and American (TO) forms and they were visually quite similar.

Add the various resin and white metal kits to the ready-to-run models I have mentioned and you have a fairly large variety of models from which to choose. You can certainly get a good start on populating your layout while we all wait to see what new models will be added in the coming years. —Bill

I have been reading the DCC columns recently and when I saw Mr. Dave Allen’s letter, it got me to thinking (scary thought). Mr. Allen states that he does “not support the NMRA precisely because of their failure to take a stronger leadership role in the hobby.” I wonder what would happen if more people joined the NMRA, whether we agree with them or not. If the NMRA has a larger membership base, would they then, in turn, have more leverage with the various manufacturers?

I’m not a member of, or affiliated in any way with, the NMRA.

Tom Bohlen
Fort Dodge, IA

I have followed your articles on the DCC “Achilles Heel” with great interest. I can’t help taking exception to one subscriber’s comments on the NMRA. I am a life member, and secretary for a local division. The hobby has benefited from both the NMRA’s leadership and forward thinking manufacturers/suppliers, who work with the association to insure product quality and compatibility. One only needs to look at the early days of the hobby to see the benefits of the NMRA’s many contributions. DCC is still “a work in progress”; like most technologies, we still have a lot to learn. I think another reader’s comparison with early PC’s was right on the mark. The gentleman, who doesn’t support the NMRA, will still benefit from the organization’s efforts to promote the hobby. I personally am proud [of the] organization and support it fully.

Bruce A. Knapp, NMRA Life Member
North Bend, OH