Write us a letter at: letters

Reader Forum?

I enjoy receiving the magazine every month. I have based my purchases on your reviews several times, such as Broadway Limited’s beautiful California Zephyr passenger cars and Proto 2000 GP20s, WP of course.

I don’t know how much input model railroad consumers have with the manufactures for future products, but I would like to see a forum in your mag for specific requests. Some manufacturers seem to run the same paint schemes and railroads over and over with each run. Atlas, BLI, and to some extent, Proto 2000 are the exceptions; they run some units for small regional carries such as Tennessee Central, LS&I, etc. I would like to see subscribers’ input on this subject.

Ed Cuyler
Marquette, MI

Hi Ed, and some sort of input forum is a good idea, though we’ll need to run it through our editorial council to determine how to make such a thing work. I know some manufacturers would love to have this sort of marketing information, while others would pay it little mind. — Ed.

Cheap Won’t Get You There

Thank you for publishing a news magazine that does not “dumb down” to model railroaders. You give us the latest updates in what the industry is doing…now. Most of us are also in other hobbies…namely hunting, fishing, sports…whatever. The point I want to make is we want the best material to support that given hobby. Cheap won’t get anybody there…so why do we promote a 4-foot by 8-foot layout with 18-inch radius track…this is like hunting deer with a B.B. gun. Discouragement will soon set in. Let’s get the upcoming generation on the right track. They do have the funds for it.

Neil E. Thompson
West Bend, WI

Thanks Neil, since this is a point I’ve been making for years. One of the appeals of the “Rock Island Central Division” project by Stephen Priest is that it is not a basic four-by-eight. The worst thing about a plywood sheet is that, since most of us can’t reach all the way across it, we have to allow two to three feet all around it, requiring the layout to consume an actual space of perhaps 10 by 14 feet. Stephen’s project layout is about 10 by 10.5 feet, uses 22-inch radius curves, and has an easy-access walk-in property about it. Our January 2006 issue covered the basic track layout. The only remaining issue isn’t exactly one of money; it would be all about how much floor space the missus is willing to cede to this project! — Ed.

Modeling Issues

I just received and read the August issue of the News. As usual I really enjoyed the paper. I have two comments on the review of the Bachmann N-scale 2-6-6-2. I have a Bachmann Mountain and a Life-Like Berkshire, both of which have the traction problem of the new articulated. It has been years since Kato made their “Mike” and we learned we needed traction tires to have these engines run any decent load. The Mountain and Berkshire both are excellent rail polishing machines with any thing much over 10- to 15-car trains. It is really neat to see them spin wheels when my old Mikes pull 40-car trains with ease. The second comment is that it is time for Bachmann to use the Accumate couplers on front and back of all steam engines if they want us to buy them.

As a second issue, I have bought one of Walthers Cabooses with the grab irons in a bag. I used a pin vise to drill 40 holes with a number 80 bit to mount the grab irons. I do not have a drill press to do these, so it is a hand job. I creased the edge of the cupola drilling the holes for the grab irons on the roof of the cupola. I tried to buy a second cupola but was told they had no spare parts. This was within six months of the release of the car. This will be my last car from Walthers that I will purchase until they either predrill the holes or mount the grab irons for us. In a ready-to-run model this is something I will not support. I do not know how others have fared. I wish you good luck with the News, as it is becoming my preferred magazine.

Bob Winterbottom
Laurel, MD

We’re in agreement on all counts, Bob. I’ve urged Bachmann to abandon the Rapido and dummy couplers and go to nothing but magnetic knuckle couplers. While I like traction tires, many model railroaders I know want nothing to do with them or complain that they wear out quickly and then are hard to replace.

As to Walthers, I can’t install the handrails myself. At 64, my vision is rather poor, my hands rather shaky, and my time is rather limited. Instead, our very good review writer, R. Dave Carr (who is in his thirties), does it for me, though it takes his expert hands about an hour per car. Meanwhile, The Walthers Platinum Line features some cabooses with the handrails and such already installed. — Ed.

Modeling the Modern Era in N Scale, Revisited

I agree with Howard Kornhauser (June 2006); trying to “model” a modern era N-scale model railroad is very difficult. I am 60 years old; I don’t have time to scratch build everything I need to attempt to finish my 22-foot by 12-foot layout. I model Santa Fe just before the BNSF merger, about 1995. John, you are correct, the most modeled era is the transition era, but Howard is correct, what era will be most popular when Howard is 60 years old about 20 years from now? I’ll probably be gone; I doubt I’ll make it to 80 years old, maybe?

Kato just came out with a post 1990 era Santa Fe SD40-2 and I love it! I bought two of them. Even though there are modern locos, freight cars, some autos and trailers, structures, etc., there are major gaps!

Boy sometimes I’m really jealous of HO modelers. I hope Athearn, Deluxe Innovations, Atlas, GHQ, Alan Curtis, Wiking, Micro-Trains, Kato, Showcase Miniatures, and others read this. They can fill the gaps. I guarantee these items will sell.

Jim Barsballe
Tooele, UT

All good points, Jim. The Walthers HO-scale reference book is thicker than any of the other two books combined. Z & N together are only about a third of the HO book. If model makers take your advice and start to make what you want, it will be about three years until the products are in your hobby shop. A manufacturer could test your assertions on one object and find it successful three years from now. Then he builds three more items and they prove successful by the year 2013, and so it goes. The secret to creating your own buildings is to see what’s around you and then make quick conversions. Take your ink jet printer and make new signs for an old building; it’s amazing how many of our modern buildings are really transition era structures still in use today. Don’t wait helplessly for them to make what you need. — Ed.

Couplers on the Project Railroad

The October MRN arrived the other day, and in the story about the Rock Island Central Division (Project Railroad, Part X), it was mentioned that the trip pins on the Kadee couplers were removed. Why? Doesn’t this negate the reason for using Kadees in the first place? If one is cutting the trip pins off, why not use “dummy” couplers like the ones in some car kits that look like and act like couplers but don’t uncouple or couple on their own? After going to all the work of installing the couplers properly, the effort is wasted by destroying the reason for using the couplers in the first place.

Cliff W. West
Rainier OR

Actually Cliff, I think Stephen explains it very well. The Kadee coupler is, of course, designed to work in a “MagneMatic” manner, but that takes more than the couplers. You must also position uncoupling magnets in the appropriate locations to take full advantage of this feature. In some cases, there is no “appropriate” location for an uncoupling magnet and operations will proceed without magnetic uncoupling. At this moment, you may compare a dummy coupler to a Kadee (or other magnetic knuckle-hook) coupler on a more fair basis, though the Kadee style still comes out way ahead. Why? Dummies cannot be coupled automatically by pushing two cars together. It is also possible to stick a fine pick into the right place on the Kadee coupler and effect an uncoupling without lifting that end of the car. Unlike Stephen’s trip pin amputations, if I choose not to use Kadees in a MagneMatic manner, I use fine pliers to carefully curl the pin upward, getting it a little more out of the way but where I can still snag it with a pick to uncouple the connection. Kato’s largely compatible knuckle couplers arrive without the trip pins installed, and some purchasers stick them on while others don’t. — Ed.

More Z?

I was wondering if you are going to begin giving Z scale more coverage in your magazine, and if so when?

Ron Kastrava
Rio Verde, AZ

Good question, Ron. We publish reviews of products we are sent by manufacturers. Every single Z-scale model we are sent gets reviewed. Often our reviewers fight over them! If they send more, we’ll review more. — Ed.

BLI’s 2-10-4, 2-10-2 Issues

I read your excellent review of the Broadway 3800 2-10-2 in the September issue. I have one of the 2-10-4 locomotives of the same series, and I too had a problem of the locomotive handling my 25-inch curves. I finally traced the problem to the drawbar between the locomotive and the tender, but I have no idea of exactly why it was causing the derailments. There was a threaded hole at the rear of the frame, and using that hole, I installed a shouldered screw and a three quarter inch drawbar as a replacement for the original long drawbar. After that change, I have had no problem in operating the Broadway 2-10-4 around 24- or 25-inch curves. I don’t know why the change made a difference, but it sure did.

C. G. Heimerdinger, Jr.
Veradale, WA
There you go, Mr. Heimerdinger. At least some of the problem I had was with driver derailment, and that wouldn’t be fixed in with a new tender drawbar. More rarely and when under a load, the tender seemed to get towed off the track, and your solution would certainly fix that. Thanks for the tip! — Ed.
PCS N-scale E units

Since I love the Precision Craft Models N scale E7, I was happy you wrote such a nice review of it. As for some modelers complaining it doesn’t sound like the real ones.... DUUHHH! I’m willing to bet any model railroader in any scale, including 1 to 1, that if he takes his model down to the tracks and runs its sound unit next to the real thing it doesn’t even come close to comparing. After running my E7 around my friend’s 12 x 16 foot layout for a while, we decided it was actually too loud and turned it down about 30 percent. I can imagine what 7-8 of these things running around an N layout must sound like.

I bought this DCC engine — my first — for one reason: it could run on my DC layout and also on my friends’ DCC layouts. That was it; I had no intention of going DCC. But now that I’ve actually run DCC on my own layout, it’s made me look closer into the DCC world than I had before. I’ve been in N scale since 1967 and I’ve been DC all the way — engines, layout, wiring etc. When DCC came along I was interested in the idea, but it was pretty radical change to sell or rebuild every engine, put in a complicated power system, etc. It wasn’t like you could try a “little DCC,” then go back to DC if you wanted to. It was an all-or-nothing dive, at least for a home layout, into something totally new. And though one of the universal selling points for DCC is “Only attach two wires and you’re set to go,” I have yet to meet anybody with a DCC layout who only used two wires to power his layout. Honestly, as you DCC people know, you need lots and lots of wires to hook up a DCC system to any decent-sized layout (did I mention isolated switch frog power?).

Then there’s the question of getting your favorite DC engines — many of which were not designed for DCC — converted, which is for all intents a one-way process. For you DCC boosters, it looked perfectly fine, but for old-timers in DC it looked like asking somebody to go out for a cup of coffee to get to know them, and being told you had to marry them and then live together for 20 years first.

There was one small out for DCC: even after a person converted all his stuff, the system would let him run one DC engine on it — but only one at a time.

Now, in the third or whatever generation DCC, these engines come along that can run in either DC or DCC, with add-on control boxes for a DC system to let an operator get DCC features out of that engine without having to rebuild his entire system. This is the real way DCC can make inroads in the hobby — not by asking modelers to dump everything they have and go completely into a new system they are not sure of. To make it so you can still run your entire DC system but also run one DCC engine (opposite of how they have it) well, that’s how you sell something good, by letting people sample for themselves. This is what the DCC people should have started off with, but at least they have it now.

The result being, as in my case, after getting a chance to see how neat DCC is running on their own DC layout, the inclination to convert to DCC is much much stronger. I’m certain that if people with existing DC layouts have a taste, a lot of them are going to decide to go all the way into DCC. At last, DCC has come up with a way to do that. I predict a lot more DC modelers will make the changeover because now they can go this route.

Al Skinner
Bellingham, WA
Hey Al, you’re driving yourself crazy with talk of rebuilding his entire system. I know people who have, but that’s been more something they wanted to do than what they had to do. Our test layout was originally wired for regular DC and has five test loops, concentrically arranged. This allows me to test trains on 18-, 21-, 24-, 27-, and 30-inch radius curves. Each loop has its own power control switch. The old DC system setup also allowed for two cabs, and each was selectable on each loop so that I could run Cab A on Track One while I put Cab Two on Track Four, as an example. Each loop is wired to a DPDT switch, the center common terminals going to the track, and the two pole sets going to Cab bus A or Cab bus B. Each bus comes out of the switch panel as a two-pin polarized automotive trailer connector. I can usually get a pair of them for a buck and a half, and I’ve got them all over the place. Every power source has one of these connectors; so, I can plug my choice of DCC right into one of the cabs, usually Cab A and a DC power pack into Cab B. If I want to run DC locos, I set the switch for Cab B on the chosen loop.

Polarity is the same on all of them so that if I set them all on Cab A, I can run the crossovers without hesitation. It is wonderfully simple and happily flexible. You can now say you know someone who powers his DCC layout with just two wires. This also means I can have a little DCC and go back to DC anytime I want. Or the other way around.

A guy with a 12 by 16 foot layout doesn’t need any more than a good 5-amp system he can plug into the same track connectors the DC power supply was using. If the layout has good, functional wiring under DC, it should be fine under DCC. Both systems chase little electrons around inside the rails, so it’s all good. Some guys don’t solder their rail joints and end up running jumpers to practically every section of track. They can if they want, but YOU don’t have to. And that isn’t so much of a DCC issue as a track laying approach. Also, Al, you should know that most silent decoders operate just fine on DC track. All those Digitrax, NCE, TCS, and other fairly modern decoders have the ability to operate on DC power, so a converted loco is not forever parted from the world of DC.

I still recall the mix of wonder and dread I felt when I first tried out DCC. Had it been difficult to do, I’m not sure I would have gone that way. Instead, I took my first system, plugged it into Cab B and then put a Broadway Limited J1e Hudson on the track. Next thing you knew, I was running that loco, blowing the whistle, and having more fun than usual. I still feel that way. — Ed.
About Canal Zone RSC-2s


Panama Railroad Alco RSC-3 #902 passing by Balboa Train Station. Engine is painted in second color scheme. Albrook AFB in distant left background. (Balboa, Canal Zone, 1967)
Regarding your article on the Alco RSC-2 in your September 2006 issue (page 26), I find it amazing that in every source that lists the total production tally of RSC-3s, the three built for and sold to the U.S. Government’s Panama Railroad (PRR) in the Panama Canal Zone are never included for some peculiar reason. With these three included, the total produced should really be 22. These three RSC-3s were purchased new by the PRR in November 1951 and were numbered 901, 902, and 903. As with all PRR equipment, they were 5-foot gauge.

For the early part of their career, they had a paint scheme very similar to the Seaboard RR’s Alcos — dark green overall with yellow horizontal bands outlined in red. They survived on the PRR until the railroad was transferred to the Republic of Panama in 1978 under the terms of the Panama Canal Treaty of 1977.

Lance Terrell
(Former Canal Zone resident)
Austin, TX
Thanks for the letter and picture, Terrell. The first Transcontinental Railroad in the Western Hemisphere was the Panama Railroad in 1855, thirteen years in advance of the events at Promontory, Utah. As to the mystery of RSC-2 accounting, we may never know why those three were neglected. — Ed.
We welcome all comments and letters from our readers!

e-mail us at: letters

or send us a letter to:
LETTERS c/o Model Railroad News
P.O. Box 1080 • Merlin, OR 97532-1080

Fax: 541-955-0346
Home About MRN Advertise Contact Us Moving? Subscribe Trial Subscription